Five Miles

---

By Will VernonBBC News, Moscow

Russia's imperial past looms large over Moscow . The Kremlin walls and towers make visitors feel like tiny specks on Red Square .

Five Miles away, I get a similar feeling when I go to Victory Park . It is a sprawling complex of museums and memorials built to commemorate the Soviet Union 's victory over Nazi Germany . The centrepiece - a massive square with an obelisk 141. 8m (465ft) High - 10Cm for each day of World War Two.

When I visit, it is National Day of The Russian Flag. An enormous tricolour - Allegedly the largest in the Country - is being unfurled on The Square .

Ringed by rigid lines of Russian soldiers, The Flag is unrolled as a military band plays patriotic music. The Museum Director gives a speech, stressing that such occasions " unite our people".

The Kremlin has been more actively encouraging patriotic events like these since the full-scale invasion of Ukraine .

Inside the Victory Museum itself, I find an exhibition dedicated to the " heroes" of the " special military operation". Information boards compare Russian troops fighting in Ukraine to Soviet soldiers in WW2.

Andrei Afanasiev, a pro-Kremlin blogger and university lecturer, agrees to meet me. He tells me patriotism is more important during wartime, and that what he calls " The West 's war on Russia" has made Russians realise that they're on their own.

" You can only rely on yourself, Your Country and your army. Definitely, patriotism is higher than it was before. War mobilises us and unites us, " he says.

I ask Andrei whether he believes The War is going badly for Russia. " I wouldn't say [so], " he replies. " I believe in the success of Russia. We Are ready for victory. "

On Russian State TV, The Talk is also of " successes" and " progress" but the reality is different.

" The Russian military understand they are in a serious fix. They have lost territory… morale is not very High at all, " a Russian military analyst, who wishes to remain anonymous due to fears of repercussions, tells The Bbc .

" They're not prepared for Modern Warfare . Losses are High . "

Is The President told The Truth about The Real situation on The Battlefield , I ask? Of course not, he says. " The lying happens on the entire chain of command. As information goes up it becomes increasingly distorted. "

The Analyst tells me Russian officers in Ukraine , in The Face of Kyiv's counteroffensive, are " nervous" because " they're just hanging on".

It's not just The Russian military who are anxious. The overall feeling I Get In Moscow is one of a general state of nervousness. And there's plenty to worry about.

In June, Yevgeny Prigozhin launched a mutiny and marched on the capital. The leader of the Wagner mercenary group was then reportedly killed in a mysterious plane crash, leading to accusations of Kremlin involvement.

Earlier this month, the value of the rouble plummeted. Add to that The Drone attacks on Moscow , which have become a near-daily occurrence.

While Russians don't seem to worry about these events individually, in general many admit to being concerned about The Present , as well as fearful about The Future .

The Scene in Gorky Park - Moscow 's version of London's Hyde Park - is idyllic, with families strolling on The Embankment and rollerblading. Just opposite, though, is the imposing grey edifice of The Russian Defence Ministry, on top of which is an anti-aircraft system.

It's a striking contrast: a surface-to-air missile system next to the picture-perfect Park .

" The air-defence system doesn't bother me, " says Svyatoslav. " Let them put a nuclear missile there if they'll feel better about it. I approve of what is happening, we need to annex [all of Ukraine ]. "

One Woman , Irina, tells me she too is not overly fazed by The Presence of missiles in the centre of Russia's capital. " My mood is stable, my psyche has already adapted. The Peak of my worry is over. But I hope that everything will be resolved in a good way. "

Pavel is out walking with his wife Olga. They disagree about The War in Ukraine : Olga supports the Kremlin and believes Ukraine is to blame, whereas her husband says Russia is At Fault .

" I worry about The Drones falling on Moscow , " Pavel admits. " But we decided we wouldn't talk about Politics - so that we don't argue and provoke each other. "

Many people seem reluctant to dwell on what's happening in cities and towns in Ukraine - Less than One Day 's drive away.

There is little indication of " war fever" among Muscovites, despite what Andrei Afanasiev says. Very few people walk The Streets in clothing displaying The Letter Z or other symbols of Russia's war. Among most, there is indifference, resignation or meek acceptance.

This mood is also prevalent among many of those in The Corridors of power, according to a source close to the Kremlin, who speaks to me on condition of anonymity.

" Officials in the Presidential Administration are either repressed, or depressed. They've worked there for so many years they don't know Anything Else . They're pessimistic about The Future , but they just go with the flow. There's No Other choice, " The Source says.

He tells me people are afraid to speak: " There is no opposition to Putin in the Kremlin. "

Fear runs deep in Moscow now. In a small room tucked away at The Top of a Shopping Centre , a meeting of opposition activists is taking place. They've laid out a table with biscuits, drinks and snacks.

Leading The Meeting is Yulia Galyamina , a local politician who is one of a tiny handful of opposition figures who haven't been imprisoned or forced to flee Russia.

" Every week Someone Else is arrested, " she sighs. " I Am Always Ready for the knock on The Door . I feel alone, but I think I do The Right thing. My people need to have politicians in their Country . "

Some of the activists are reluctant to give their real names.

" I'm an anti-war activist who is Just Lucky to not be in prison yet, " says one, also called Yulia.

She left university after several lecturers expressed support for the Kremlin's military operation. I ask her what message she has for people in The West who think all Russians support The War .

" I want to say there are a lot of anti-war people here and anti-war activists… humanity will win anyway. We Are fighting here and we will do our best. "

Related Topics

Source of news: bbc.com